Have You Experienced One of Iowa’s Most Legendary Dishes Yet?

A jewel in Des Moines’ culinary crown, steak de burgo has been a staple on local menus for decades. The legend of steak de burgo is tightly intertwined with Johnny & Kay’s, a restaurant that, before it closed its doors, boldly claimed to have invented this delectable creation. So, if you’ve been living under a culinary rock, as I have been, it’s time to embrace the steak de burgo—Des Moines’ deliciously well-kept secret, that many people know about! 

What made Steak de Burgo famous?

You’ll have to forgive me; I’m just learning of this delicacy and its history.  The recipe for Steak de Burgo gained notable recognition and widespread acclaim when it was featured in a 1964 edition of the Better Homes and Gardens recipe book titled "Famous Foods from Famous Places." This cookbook was a compilation of distinctive recipes from various renowned establishments, and the inclusion of steak de burgo underscored its significance in the culinary landscape of Des Moines. 

How do you make Steak de Burgo?

The preparation of Steak de Burgo is a testament to classic cooking techniques and ingredients which I know nothing about. The dish begins with a prime cut of beef tenderloin steak, which is pan-fried to perfection in a generous amount of butter. I’ll admit when I see generous amounts and butter in the same sentence I do smile.  What about you? Just so we’re clear. Mmmm, butter. This initial cooking step ensures that the steak is seared to a rich, golden-brown crust while maintaining a tender and juicy interior.  

The next crucial component of the dish is the topping, which consists of fresh herbs that add a burst of aromatic freshness and complexity. The steak is then adorned with an emulsified pan sauce, a key feature of the dish that elevates its flavor profile. This sauce is meticulously crafted using a blend of butter, garlic, heavy cream, and wine, creating a luxurious and creamy texture that complements the steak beautifully.  The heavy cream can be troublesome if you’ve not worked with it before.  Also, don’t drink all the wine before the dish gets its portion.  I don’t know anyone who has ever done that, maybe.   

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The garlic infuses the sauce with its savory depth, while the heavy cream provides a smooth richness. I think generous amounts and garlic are also good. The addition of wine introduces a subtle acidity that balances the overall richness of the dish. The sauce is carefully emulsified, meaning that the ingredients are blended into a smooth, cohesive mixture, ensuring that every bite of steak is enveloped in this flavorful sauce. This description is from someone who has been known to burn pop-tarts.  Hopefully I’ve made it sound good, the steak, not the burned pop-tarts.   

Despite the closure of Johnny & Kay’s, the dish continues to be a point of pride for the community, and its legacy endures through the many variations that have appeared on restaurant menus throughout the city. 

Steak de Burgo is more than just a meal; it is a piece of Iowa history, a symbol of local culinary heritage, and a reminder of the enduring impact of classic recipes that have stood the test of time. I’ll be trying this very soon. Do you know anywhere that is currently serving it?